REVIEW: valentino resort 2014

this is it, folks. can you believe it? resort is OVER. it started a little slow, i was literally begging for them to flow the collections online a little slower (which they refused to even entertain) because it was all dumped online over the course of about 4 days. so i think i kept pace rather well!

i have notes on all the collections, but only wanted to review the stand-outs - good and bad. and confused, which is more common than bad haha.

valentino was a pretty big collection, which i always think can be trimmed down. no one needs more than 40 looks for a collection, anything more just gets out of hand. and then you show all these pieces that look great and may never make it to stores. exhale, that's the buyer coming out it me.

they had a lovely transition through this collection, from navy uniforms all the way to neon green beaded gowns. and they nailed it! fall 2013 saw a brand new valentino with a fresher appeal and this collection definitely continued that train of thought. i think it will be a big game changer for the brand.

no more eyelet and lace dresses in white and red. well, maybe a couple, but hopefully some more newness as well!

all images sourced from style.com

REVIEW: christopher kane resort 2014

holy cow! have you seen christopher kane's collection for resort? i mean if you saw his means, you basically got the coles notes version of it... but resort took it to a whole new level. the swiss lace he used to create a totally virtual 3D collection.

way back in the day, when we didn't really have the internet, i remember a simpsons episode where homer went inside a computer or something. and the world he was in looked like this collection! all prisms and wire structures to make up 3D shapes and curves. it was the absolute foundation of that virtual experience, so don't mind the black and neon colour story!

the way he progresses from delicate floral motifs used in sheer panels, all the way to full on dresses in a more sinister application (like thorns and barbed wire covering the models), you can't help but be addicted to it. something to delicate to be so threatening - how does he manage to do this every season!?

i didn't care much for the banded dresses or the drab suiting with giant jeweled buttons. i got the juxtaposition, but every rose has its thorns, and i want these ones.

all images sourced from style.com

resort wrap-up

ohhh my. resort reviews are done and i did FIVE yesterday!
had to churn through them so i can keep pace and move to menswear. first day in london was yesterday and i alreday have three slated - richard nicoll, jonathan saunders, and the male component of christopher kane.

i will throw up the remainder of the reviews you can find on my youtube channel! there were 19 in total which is total insanity for a resort season. this season wasn't important when i started out (in the fashion industry), and now it's critical to the development of a house's brand. it's also the perfect time to experiment.

there were a lot of stand out brands, and then a lot that fell by the wayside as well. some of my favourite brands disappointed me - but that always means new ones will fill the void! now i just have a bigger list of brands on my radar. here is how i would categorize them (with links to my full reviews):

breaking-out & breathtaking
emanuel ungaro
christopher kane
gucci
jason wu
christian dior

spot-on the new trends
3.1 phillip lim
chanel
erdem
louis vuitton
preen

great brand progression
alexander wang

michael van der ham

peter pilotto
valentino

confused & troubled
burberry prorsum
balenciaga
lanvin
michael kors
prabal gurung

REVIEW: preen resort 2014

preen, preen, preen. this brand kind of lost their way the past little while. when i was first introduced to the brand it was all magadalena frackowiak and cut out dresses. it was just... sexy. and as much as i idolized the models, it wasn't something i was able to get into as a customer. and then that whole direction went away... to later be picked up and taken to a whole new level by anthony vaccarello and cushnie et ochs and mugler.

they showed at different cities, but it still didn't work. but they've finally found their way! and it is completely different in the most delicious way.


i've been talking about the fusion of athletic wear into daywear, and this is the most direct representation. floral printed hoodies! to go with the watercolour maxi skirts! it is such a soft and airy collection. it makes you want to curl up in a big shopping bag filled with preen!

all images sourced from style.com

REVIEW: peter pilotto resort 2014

peter pilotto instantly makes you think prints... and for good reason! he's finally getting some major red carpet exposure and it's all structure and ruffles and neon. and that's why we love him! but you've got to move forward as well.

this season his play with line was taken to a new level with almost optical illusions in the pleats of his dresses. it was the perfect progression of his design and the lines only accented how strong his construction is! sometimes those craaaaaaazy prints distract you! he's really a wizard.


did i mention how genius his embroidery play was as well?

the perfect continuation from the trend we saw last spring, and in navy and black it's hip and has some edge. i love the way the embroidery is used to both conceal and reveal. so aside from the colour blocked dresses and too simple shifts, this is a home run. keepin' it complicated!

all images sources from style.com